I’m finding that most designers design with full bleeds, at least the ones I am printing for. Just curious what other printers are doing, printing on oversize paper and cutting after wards? Any advice would be great. I have a C&P 8×12.
Yes, they love to design that way huh? I also have a C&P 8×12, and I have found the only way for full bleed is to print on oversize as you mentioned and cutting after. Or talking them out of a full bleed. 😉 If it’s not a solid bleed and prints to the edge of 3 sides (like an image of some sort), I use handmade registration paper “pins” taped at the bottom, so not as tall as my metal pins & the plate won’t affect them in printing. I’d also love to hear if anyone else has any other suggestions.best,kathryn
Hi Kathryn,Great advice thank you, do you have a photo of your handmade paper pins. i have to admit the first time I tried a 2 color job, I hit a metal pin and it had to go into the recycle bin.Thanks for you time,Ondine
I always print on oversize press sheets when bleeds are involved, and trim down to final afterward. Allow an 1/8″ bleed and print with crop marks (offset the crop marks to avoid entering the live art area). This is standard practice in print.
Buying parent sheets will actually save you money, since otherwise you’re paying the paper merchant to cut them down for you. If you have the capability, it’s most economical to buy parent sheets and then cut them down as the job requires. Trimming afterwards is by far the best and most accurate way to print bleeds–even if you only leave .25″ for them.
I’m also curious about this question. When I’ve had bleeds in the past, I just cut the paper to exact size and let the ink come of the edge and print on the tympan paper. At first I was worried that this would get ink on the back of my paper, but I guess I was careful enough when I hand-fed that it didn’t.