Cutting fancy shapes for labels

I want to make so fancy label for my soap. So i’m thinking i’ll LP them. But then i decided a fun shape would make it more interesting. 

Let’s say i print first, then cut the shape. I have a C&P 8×12. Do i order a die in the shape just a little larger than my outside black printed area?

I have never had a die to cut  – can someone explain how I’d go about this challenge?

Is there such a thing as premade dies that i can order? Or are they all custom?

Thanks very much for any insight to a novice printer.

Mary

 

 

Hi Mary,

I have all of my dies made – that way you know exactly what shape to expect. There are lots of different diemaking companies out there (I use Atlas), just find one near you and call them. They’ll want to know your type height (usually 0.918″) and if you want a crease line, stuff like that. Then you just send them an eps file, the same as you would for Boxcar, and it’s usually done in less than a week. 

 

For your C&P, do you have or need a die jacket? I have a Windmill and it comes with one, but you might want to see if you need one before you get started. Also, when designing the die, it’s good to leave a tiny bit of the die out, so that the paper isn’t falling out of the cut area while it’s still on press! Does that make sense? If not, I can send you a pdf of some dies that I’ve designed so you can see what I mean.

 

Hope this helps,

Sarah

Shed Letterpress

I’m not even sure if i my press can do this. I don’t have a die jacket. Thanks for the suggeston of Atlas – i’m off to see what they offer!

Mary

I don’t know this for sure, but it would *seem* to me that any platen press can die cut. Let me know what you find out!

 

Also, you can have things die cut for you; it’s very inexpensive. See if you can find a local bindery.

 

Good luck!

Sarah

Your C&P can do this! Just take care to protect the platen and press bed from being marked by the die; as it cuts, the cutting rule will be pushed back and can make marks on your bed. Put a piece of red press board behind the die so that the rule of the die won’t leave a mark when you’re cutting. You don’t need a whole jacket–a piece of shim steel, taped to the tympan, will work. (I use McMaster-Carr item # 9014K61) Start with no packing first, since the press board and steel might be sufficient for a nice clean cut. Let me know if you need photos!

Kseniya, thank you. I would appreciate any photos as I’ve never seen it done, thank you!

Mary

 

I took some photos the other day of the process, so will post tomorrow or Saturday!

 

that is the way to learn, don’t worry… later you become the best…..

 

You would pretty much create a die line that is 5 or 10 percent larger than your art and have a steel rule die made.  When die cutting, if you can do it right, you can “kiss-cut” the label stock so that you have a waste lip that can be peeled back, rather than a full cut out label that you have to separate the adhesive layers on.  Of course a lot (but not all) label stock is split on the back to make removal of the backing paper easy.

Generally all steel rule dies are custom,  unless the die maker has some generic shapes (circles, squares),l in stock, however they will probably all cost about the same.

Posting tomorrow–bad pics and all! 🙂

Hi all – I just looked into ordering a couple dies (from Atlas) to make a rounded corner business card and they wanted $350 for one! Wow – is that normal? Thanks – Sharon

That seems really really high. I order from Micon Steel Rule die in MA, and sometimes a local guy, and their prices range from around $45 for a simple shape to $140 for a complicated scalloped one.

Thanks I though so.. I’ll tell them to hold off.

I’d love to see some pics too as I may need to create a die bed myself w/ my c&p!!

mine has been sitting in my garage for 2 months – untouched.. i need to get on this thing..

I posted a how-to in the blog a while back–have a look!

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