I got mine done via recommendation of Casey from Inky Lips. He recommended RotaDyne in Texas. THEY WERE AMAZING! I needed a second set (cores/rollers) for my press and they helped me locate another press owner near their plant, did measurements and recovered for 2 rollers for $450 (that way I didn’t have to send in the current set and have to stop work) Cores/rollers set are more expensive, I’m sure it’s cheaper for just recovering. They turned them around in 2 weeks + Shipping. I’m a customer for life. The rollers are perfect and print amazingly. Singing praises from the rooftops. Here’s their contact info. Tell them Adrienne from Dingbat Press sent you.John & Cheryl LaughlinRotaDyne817-424-3156 Ext: #152817-481-0863 Faxclaughlin@rotadyne.com

I’ve never had a successful order from Crane with Lettra. they SUCK! I’ve given them plenty of opportunities as well. I now buy direct from Legion and my REP ROCKS!!!! He’s from west coast legion but often I can order under the $250 minimum without paying extra. AND he’ll let me request the parent sheets to be cut down at minimal cost. I usually order 100, 300GSM 22×30 parent sheets and have them cut down to 6×11″ which gives me roughly 1000 in the end. It’s not more than $180 including shipping via UPS ground and I have it within 2-3 days of placing my order. He’s great about samples too, I love my rep!On scoring, I like a sharp fiskars rotary scorer that you use on a 12″ trimmer, haven’t had problems with it on lettra. Grain on lettra is on the longest side of a parent sheet, however if you don’t know how it’s trimmed then that can botch you up. Also, I like to use Arturo for cards and folded notes and you can get them from legion as well in a 4Bar note that is pre-scored. Well worth it. Weight is 250GSM. Often if I need to do a folded card with a wedding suite I’ll print on Lettra pearl for invitations, and get arturo softwhite for the folded notes. my clients have never said a thing. Arturo has a slightly more textured look to the paper and deckle edges, but no complaints here.I do get a little saltiness with lettra, however not on all runs. can’t quite figure it out. sometimes I wonder if it’s more the humidity in the atmosphere vs. the actual paper since sometimes i have it and other times it’s not an issue.

I do Boxcar base and plates. registration is a breeze.Ink. Buy the PMS mixing kit and an extra can of white. If you are looking to cut cost on ink, you can get silver 877 and really mix almost any metallic from that. I Haven’t bought gold or copper yet and can mix stellar hues from silver, including gold. I use the white in my mixing instead of tint-base (thus the extra can). Tint-base can be a pain in the butt to print with if there is type in the layout/form – I don’t use it much except for transparencies. Don’t bother with custom colors now, bill the client for that if they want an EXACT (think anal) match. You can mix almost anything.Pantone Books: I don’t think you need a whole set. I only use my uncoated solids book and metallic book. Keep them in a black case. sunlight and shop lights can fade the books.Glass – I bought this great table for $20 at target. It’s a 3 tier glass table and looks totally 80s. I think I found it in the lamps and side tables section. I keep it in a corner by my press with ink on the two bottom shelves and I mix on the top shelf! It’s 1/4″ glass with routered corners.Boxcar sells california wash. I’ve never used it. I buy Nature Wash and use it for every press cleaning (from Gans Ink) to clean my press, even when pregnant and with babies around. I use Gans ink too, it was cheaper. it’s runnier. I’ve since bought a few cans of VanSons and if I were to start over I’d go VanSons.Tympan, I get mine off ebay.Good luck!

I’m up for it (6 months late)!

I find a hard thing is that many presses have similar design styles and use the same stock (hello dover) which I myself use on occasion. Be aware of your competition and be familiar with other presses so when someone comes to you, you know who they are trying to rip-off (emulate) and then offer custom design as an alternative. My usual lingo is this and it usually doesn’t send them running:Hi ____,As a fine letterpress printer I value the copyrights associated with this design and feel it a conflict of interest to re-produce said design. These are beautiful invitations however and give me a good idea as to the look and feel of the event you are looking to have!I generally employ a non-compete policy in that I choose not to replicate other designer’s work due to copyright and licensing infringement. I’d be happy to work with you on custom invitations though and we can use those images as a starting point for inspiration, let me know if that’s something you are interested in…In saying this, I’m not reprimanding someone for wanting to rip another designer/printer off and am confident enough that I can come up with something unique that will satisfy my client in the end. By the end of the design phase we are light-years away from the initial design presented (not that it’s better but it suits the clients needs without losing one’s integrity).If you want to use this wording please be my guest as I want others to respect my designs as I try to respect theirs!Lastly, If someone comes to me with camera ready artwork, I make them sign a release stating that they have permission to use said file, and that I’m not responsible for printing said file if it does indeed infringe on copyright of someone else.

I require 100% down (terms outlined in the initial estimate). If job is canceled during design phase they get 60% back. Once design is approved then job turns over to non-refundable status.If the client is stingy and asks for 50% down instead, then I bill first 50% at beginning of job, and then last 50% upon approval of artwork. If additional pieces get added or add-ons they are billed and must be paid before job ships. Everything is outlined in the estimate so the client knows what to expect before making the initial purchase. If they are uncomfortable with the term I invite them to purchase a sample first or assume that it’s probably not someone worth my time in the end…haven’t had many problems with not receiving payment.Wholesale orders require a CC on file and buyer must have made 4 POs before a credit app can be applied for. Once credit is granted it’s net 30 with interest after that. If payment hasn’t been made in 3 months, I bill invoice to the initial CC on file.

I use lettra as my house paper and really like it. I might be wasting my time but I hand score with a fiskars 12″ trimmer and scoring blade set on. It creates a nice score/fold. If you don’t go with lettra though, Arturo has great pre-scored cards that I love too.

I use Gans Nature Wash. I had a letterpress instructor who’s father was a Chemist, he said the nature wash is not harmful (and not smelly) for printing, preggo and children. It works well and makes my press happy. I also took the workshop on maintaining your press by Paul Moxon (founder of vandercookinfo.com). He recommended Putz Pomade on rollers to de-glaze every once and awhile and believe it or not he took a scotch pad (you know , the green sponges you use to clean grime off your metal pans in the kitchen) to the press on demo!Hand cleaner – I like the Orange gritty soap that you buy in the paint section at a hardware store, I believe it’s Fast Orange Hand cleaner. Works like a charm and is non-toxic.

I’ve got the DDs here and although it doesn’t bother me too much normally, when I’m pregnant that’s a whole other story. My OB recommend wrapping my ribs/chest as posture has a lot to do with it too. I just used a good old ace bandage and wrapped it tight every-time I printed. Otherwise I’d have “out” days where I couldn’t even walk!

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