Hi Alexis.

 

I’d be happy to help if you let me know what you need. You can send an email to colleen@cleanwashletterpress.com.

 

Colleen

get yourself a screw extractor: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202272968/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Hi Adina!I think that you would save money in the long run (in paper waste alone) by paying the $10 to get the parent sheets cut down by Kelly Paper. Due to past experience, I would absolutely say do not take it to Kinko’s! Generally, they are not familiar with Lettra or any papers commonly used in letterpress printing. It’s best to take your precious paper to someone who you can trust with it!Do you have any plans to purchase a paper cutter in the future? I have a used Challenge that was very reasonably priced. It paid for itself in convenience alone, almost immediately.

It all depends on how your press bed is adjusted. What works for one person probably won’t work exactly right for you. I use .22 or .30 chipboard under the tympan and build it up sheet by sheet (depending on what I am printing) until I get the correct impression depth. Unfortunately, trial and error is sometimes the only way to get to the right place! Start with just your tympan and build up whatever packing material you decide to use, little by little (+ give yourself a break!).

Hi Ren. Make sure that you are using uncoated paper- rubber based ink will never dry on a coated stock! I use both rubber and oil based inks and normally don’t have an issue with drying. If you aren’t happy with the rubber based- pick up a can of oil and see how you like it, it definitely dries faster.

coaster stock!its thick and cheap:http://www.katzamericas.com/products_blanks.asp

It is reusable- though sometimes after you remove the plate from the base the old adhesive can warp it a bit. When that happens, I find that it is just easier to pull it off and replace the adhesive.I haven’t used the metal backed plates- someone else will have to fill you in!

I use the film adhesive (roll) from Boxcar ( http://www.boxcarpress.com/photopolymer-supplies/platemaking-supplies.html ) and have never had an issue with plates moving! Spray adhesive is just a mess, and I wouldn’t recommend using double sided tape as it could cause uneven impression.

I have a Lassco 50B. It has a wood base and is much sturdier than the CR20’s I have used. It works fine (not any better or worse). Nothing beats a die when it comes to corner rounding!! I am starting to build a library of rounded corner dies in standard sizes. Takes less time and is a lot easier on my carpal tunnel!

Hi Kristina!A lot Chandler & Price’s were fitted with ink fountains as well. The ones that I have seen/used are about 1/4 the width of the ink disk. This causes a lot of problems (in my experience) because it distributes a small length of ink that doesn’t have the chance to get distributed properly before the rollers contact the plate (ie a blob gets printed). Of course the amount of ink added to the disk can be controlled, but for jobs that were worth using the fountain, the blob was always an issue.I have not used a Golding with an ink fountain, but would imagine that this would be a different story since it is very close to the full width of the ink disk- distribution would be (more) even and you probably wouldn’t have the blob factor… From what I have seen/ heard the Golding fountains seem to be much more useful/well made and even if you don’t plan on using it, I would say that it would be worth holding on to in case you ever wanted to sell your press. For $150 I would certainly keep it!

this should work: http://www.dickblick.com/products/dura-lar-clear-acetate-alternative/

You don’t necessarily need to used oiled tympan paper… I use a lot of brown paper as well as mylar bought in rolls. It works just fine and is much cheaper!

If you are using polymer the line weight needs to be .25 pt or higher. Otherwise there is no guarantee that the lines will hold. Make sure to pay attention to the weight of the serifs on your type- that is one area that I have found a lot of people overlook.Good luck!

You could make one yourself with supplies from McMaster-Carrbelting (sold in one foot lengths):http://www.mcmaster.com/#5753K424lacinghttp://www.mcmaster.com/#6118K14The width of the belting depends on your motor. Lacing just hammers onto the belt. It is a lot easier than one would think. To start with, I measure the length around the flywheel and motor (usually using the belting itself) and cut. Then I apply the lacing to both ends of the belt and try it out on the press. If it is too long I cut off little by little from one end and re-lace it as many times as necessary in order to get the right tension.I have a 12×18 C&P that doesn’t have the original motor. So a pre-made belt would not have worked for me. It is a bit of trial end error this way but I think that it is worth it (and cheaper!) to do it yourself. Get at least an extra length of belting just in case you over cut!

Newman Paperboard is located in Philadelphia. (http://www.newmanpaperboard.com/) They make all kinds of chip including custom colored boards. Their minimum is probably a lot higher than you are looking for, but maybe you could call and see if they have any cranberry colored scraps around?

[Author]

Posts