I know this is a late response to your query, but I hope it helps you or anyone else.Yes, lino is a good way to print solid areas of colour. I also use type-high blocks of wood that I get my local hardware to cut to shape for me. It’s hard to get things to exactly type-high, so best practice is to make sure they’re slightly under and then pack…[Read more]

I have just bought some @ and © symbols from M&H Typesetters; they have a special set of different sized symbols as a single purchase. They’re keeping up with the times!

I use photopolymer when I have a lot of text and not enough of a typeface, or when I’m printing handwriting or other languages. I also use it for line drawings (haven’t ventured into the fearsome world of dot screens yet!). I use the filmbacked plate, not metal backed, and I adhere them to a custom-made aluminium backing plate with spray adhesive,…[Read more]

I think offering up a different name for the process is a really valid way to proceed. I love the idea of ‘laserboss’.At the risk of alienating a whole heap of people who use presses, I have a bit of trouble with stationery printed deeply by plate being called ‘letterpress’ because I associate letterpress with handset moveable type. But I think…[Read more]

I don’t have specific leather experience, but I have run enough odd surfaces through the press to know that you need to be quite careful with firm or textured surfaces that push back against the type — you end up with mashed metal, or imprinted wood, depending on what you were printing with. I now have some wood type with underpants elastic…[Read more]