Thanks, Jon. I’ll pass this on to Jessica Pokaski. She’s the creative brain behind.

Hi Katie, I understand your caution. I think it’s possible to get press help on more than the Kelsey. I met Eric Combs of Combs and Taylor at a Ladies of Letterpress conference a couple of years ago. Their first advice was to up my insurance to a bazillion dollars, or as much as I could afford. Second advice was to create a LLC so my home was separate from the business. Third was to create a liability waiver customized for my studio. It was a little expensive to do that (around $1,200) but worth it because it creates an extra layer of protection.

Any of these things, even if you can’t do them all, are good to do if you have someone working for you.

Yes. I use the copic marker airbrush. I guess my “easily match pantone colors” comment was not quite accurate. But they do have a lot to choose from.

postscript: if you want to talk about environmentally friendly adhesives let me know. 3M has some that are bad (Super 77) and others are not as bad. I always want to learn more. Thanks!

Hi Erika,

I’m sure there is someone out there who has a simpler and more informative answer for you. But here’s my 2 cents. I’ve found it’s challenging to find good pre-made duplex stocks. I usually end up making it myself to get exactly what we want. Business cards are great because they’re small and you don’t have to do to much handwork. I’ve experimented with dozens of adhesives and the trick is to get an adhesive that is dry enough to not cause drag on the cutter knife (too much drag=crooked cuts) and that won’t warp the paper. 3M has a great product that is very expensive and I use it whenever the budget allows. The cheapest most labor intensive method I’ve found is 2 coats of rubber cement (1 very thin coat on each side, let dry, then stick together). Another cheap way to go is to find an Avery label stock and stick it to museum board or some other thick stock. Let me know if you have more questions. I could talk all day about adhesives. 🙂

Last, I will leave you with, I think, an invaluable tip that my cutter maintenance guy passed on to me. Spray your blade with a low friction dry lube made with PTFE (I got it from Home Depot) and let it cure overnight. This lasts through a few dozen cuts (depending on the stickiness of your adhesive).

I often get asked for letterpress proofs and I tell them it costs $200 to mix the ink, set up the press, set up the plate, pull a print, clean the press, etc… (the more tasks I list the more they get that it’s a lot of work.)  Occasionally someone does it, but usually I just overload them with pre-printed samples of things that are similar to their piece and they are content with their digital proof and their imagination.

When I get a very anxious person I will schedule a press check to soothe their fears. But I’ve learned to be very careful and manage expectations by explaining to them that ink can change over time on the press and the first print does not always look exactly the same as the last print.

Green Paper Company has open end Monarch size

I’m probably too late for your customer but I think Maple Street Paper has one that looks like this

All of these options are great. To add to the Somerset suggestion, I love Somerset textured. Also if you like a cost effective and socially conscious handmade sheet you could try my fair trade jute paper. It’s really pillowy ands cuts/folds easily. http://demilodesign.com/letterpress/paper_jute_letterpress.html

I’ve tried edge coloring a dozen different ways and have finally settled on using an airbrush (The Copic marker airbrush is great with virtually no cleanup and you can easily match pantone colors). I put the cards in the cutter, slice, and leave the clamp down. The clamp down ensures that the cards are nice and straight. Mask around the stack with blue masking tape so I don’t get ink all over my cutter and spray that side. Then flip and slice/airbrush the second side, etc. Any way you do it, it takes time. Good luck!

Adina, This is the same problem I always have with Stardream on the C&P. Vandercook works better for me when lightly inked. For the last few years I’ve been avoiding Stardream altogether and using Curious Metallic instead because it takes the print so beautifully. Good luck on your project!–Annika

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