Hi Emily,(I’m a bit cofused, since I don’t think C&P made a 9×13 platen.) The designation comes from the size measured on the inside of the chase. I’m betting it is either a 10×15, or 8×12. Either one is a fine machine, and I’ve owned both and loved them. I’m assuming it is a hand-fed and not automatic, right? OK—oiling it is very important, and…[Read more]

Puzzling through this and based on my own experience, which really is limited to a couple of V-36 Verticals and a Kelly “B”.  The closest I’ve come to running a Heidelberg was running several KORD and KOR presses. Keeping that in mind——it seems to me that the cyliinder gear and the bed gear are fixed relative to one another. With all the…[Read more]

Hi Laura,I used to have one for my son to play with while I was in the shop! I can’t for the life of me remember the name, but I will trot out to my “at home” shop and see if it is still around. I assume you aren’t going to do serious printing on it, right? It was certainly a treat–and a trip down memory lane–to see the picture of it!Thanks for…[Read more]

Hi Susan,Oops….well, to be honest I’ve cleaned them both ways, sometimes putting a bit of solvent on the disc and letting the press run for a minute or two so the ink comes clean easily. I like to take the rollers off simply because my C&P is up on a 2×4 base and the rollers are harder to reach with a wash-up rag. (If you have adjustable trucks,…[Read more]

Hi Susan,Are you running conventional ink, or rubber-base? Regular (Oil-based) inks need to come off after the job is finished, while rubber-based inks can remain on the rollers overnight (or so). If you have any question about the kind of ink you are using, or any additives (dryer, tack reducer, etc.) then by all means, play it safe and clean the…[Read more]

Hi Gary,Many, many thanks! It looks like it will be very helpful, and it is just the sort of guidepost I needed to keep me from the usual pitfalls—which, of course, involve broken bits and/or crunched fingers.When you need composing sticks, let me know and if I have duplicates, one is yours, with appreciation!Thanks again,Barb

Hi Gary,I have a couple of duplicate sticks, if that helps. I’ve been playing with the Ludlow and **LOVE** it!! SO much handier than a Linotype! Not, of course, as fast, but quick enough for hobby-shop use, and nice faces. I’ve got the machine to produce good, solid type, and blank filler slugs, and repeat lines as needed. I’m going to use four…[Read more]

Hi Gary,I would be in your debt forever! I have an assembly/parts list but it is for a newer model Ludlow, and has no actual operational information.  What I need are the basic steps from locking in the stick on the machine, through casting the line, and removal  of the stick. Seems simple enough, but there are a bunch (!) of safety features b…[Read more]

Hi Folks,Great advice, but if the machine is in a basement or home, the three-phase could be very expensive; either more wiring from the pole, or a phase converter. You might try single-phase. I’ve run Kluges, C&P open and automatic and V36’s, all on single-phase motors. Some of the older motors are built for original equipment rpm control,…[Read more]

Quick update: (I may have the only one of these in captivity!) I’ve found why the clutch wouldn’t engage—-there are three large set-screws that screw through the main-shaft bushing and engage the main-shaft itself. They are worn to the point of simply grooving the shaft instead of turning it! With new engagement holes drilled into the shaft, and…[Read more]

Hi Ladies,Couple things I forgot and remembered as I was reading Danielle’s response; when speaking of cylinders, most people now think of a Vandercook or some other proof press, but cylinders typically (in the press room, not composing) were large stop-cylinder or two-revolution machines, virtually all mechanically fed after the late 1920’s.…[Read more]

Hi Cory,  Back in “Ye Olden Days”, I owned a commercial printing plant, and had open and automatic platens, and cylinders—Miehle and Kelly “B”. In terms of a smaller shop, it is hard to argue with history, and at one time over 95% of the job shops in this country were equipped with C&P Gordons. They are not as well constructed as a Kluge, in…[Read more]

Hi Ladies,  Thanks for responding. I’ve got two Ludlow composing sticks coming from eBay; however, sadly, heritage press is a continent away. A few years ago I rode a motorcycle from home (65 miles north of Seattle) to N. Carolina–it’s a huge Country, and I just can’t imagine how I would get a Lino all the way out here. Shipping would be…[Read more]

Hi Ladies,Coming at it from a slightly different angle, I’d suggest a C&P floor model, either an 8×12 or a 10×15. I’ve owned both, and you can’t beat a little 8×12 for kicking out business or calling cards at around 2500 iph, hand-feeding! On the other hand, the 10×15 will give you more image area and more impression strength. As for moving—oy!…[Read more]

Hi,This used to happen a lot on my platens, which is why I loved the V36 and the Kelly! However, to the problem at hand: two things I would try would be to (carefully) thin the ink with reduction varnish or tack reducer, and also running thick vertical borders outside the image area, to relieve some of the tendency of the rollers to mash down over…[Read more]

Hi Alicia,In the past, I have had to print solids, and the folks are right—it is difficult at best to get a nice, rich solid. A couple of things I did to help included the following: if you have them, run the idler rollers on your form rollers to maximize your ink supply. I would (by gentle stages) thin the ink out, and as a last resort, I’d…[Read more]

Hi Ladies,Interesting and kind of funny….baby wipes are great, as are several commercial hand cleaners, but the funny part is that for years, when interviewing press operators, I would look for the “tell”—-an ink-stained thumb indicated experience!I’ve long-since gotten into the habit of using surgical gloves while cleaning equipment (or…[Read more]